Once, when I told a four-year old what my name was, he said, "That's not a name, that's a letter of the alphabet".

Thursday, 3 April 2014

Beached

Last entry re my road trip and then I will stop boring you! 


 Lookout at Tautuku, Catlins

By the time I'd reached my third solo day 'on the road', I was ready to stop somewhere for more than one night. I was looking forward to a two-day spell in the forest with the beach a stone's throw away. I was heading for the Catlins, turning the corner at Invercargill and heading east.

The night in Te Anau had been pleasant enough (great to walk by the lake and acquaint myself again with Te Anau's magic) but the motel's frugal approach didn't really go down too well with me, considering what I was paying. Not top dollar, but enough to expect a little more luxury than it was willing to give. Maybe they thought that having a lake-view makes up for only allowing one hour's internet, no Sky TV and a bathroom dating back to the 70's. It was very clean and tidy and I would normally accept those things, but not when you are paying over one hundred dollars a night.


 patterns on the sand at Kaka Point beach

My third day on the road started with me struggling with the effects of not getting a good sleep in Riverton. I was staying in a nice little ensuite unit at a small camping ground. No problems there. It had an oustanding shower! I liked the manager too - a chatty, friendly elderly woman who reminded me a bit of my mother. (I guess it's the Southland-flavour some people have). And the price was almost half the price of  Te Anau's motel. It was very comfortable and I was looking forward to settling in for a good long sleep. Until my neighbours in the attached ensuite arrived and I realised how thin the walls were.


beach at Kaka Point

They talked on into the night. There was no laughing; it was all pretty intense. I was on tenterhooks waiting for the outbursts of shouting I thought were going to occur at any moment. His voice in particular was a deadly drone I couldn't stop hearing once I'd turned the TV off to settle down for some sleep. I couldn't hear what they were saying, thank goodness, but there was still the constant, annoying, monotonous grumble for me to try and drown out.

I turned on the little radio that in an inspired move I'd included in my luggage, stuck on the headphones which I'd also thought to pack, and tried to let the late-night radio stations block out my neighbour's voices and soothe me to sleep. 

It did succeed in cutting out his persistent bass, interspersed by her whining alto; but didn't send me to sleep. 

FINALLY they stopped their into-the-night deep and meaningful. 

At 2.00 a.m.

My planned early start had been kyboshed by the need to sleep late and I woke feeling decidedly out of sorts. It was already 11.00 a.m. when I headed for Invercargill and brunch at Zookeepers, where toasted sandwiches are still called mousetraps. (None of this panini malarky).

However, just as I was about to leave Invercargill, I received a call on my phone from the camping ground manager. I'd left my phone charger behind. Probably the most common mistake of any traveller.(Well, this traveller anyway). There was nothing for it but to turn around and make the 30-min trip back to Riverton.

sea lettuce on Kaka Point beach

An hour later, charger safely aboard, I looked at the maps we have in the car, trying to work out how to get out to Fortrose from Invercargill. I haven't got the world's best sense of direction, but better signage surely would have lessened the time - it took me nearly an hour. Invercargill; you need more signs pointing to places beyond - especially East. I would have welcomed a clear signpost pointing to Fortrose.

Eventually, a very large, clear, bright sign informed me I had entered the Catlins. Hmmm, yes, all very well, but why did I feel like I'd been put through some sort of intelligence test (at which I'd dismally failed) to get there? I almost expected to see the word, Congratulations!

Kaka Point beach looking towards Nugget Point and lighthouse

By the time I reached my destination, I was weary. I had no time to take the coast route, so the trip wasn't as interesting as it could've been. I'd not allowed myself enough time. That will have to be another trip.

The weirdness of travelling alone had also increased. Sooo, when I couldn't find the guy who had the key for the Lodge I'd booked into (and no phone coverage to read the instructions for collection that were on my phone) it all became too hard. I decided on the spot to simply head back home to Dunedin. It would mean another 2 hours travelling, but now that my  nose was pointing towards home, there was going to be no turning back.I was too near home and the temptation to flee the scene was too strong. (Proving again that by nature I am a bolter).

Fortunately, Kaka Point was on the way to Dunedin. I stopped off there for a welcome barefoot stroll along the beach. It was a much-needed salve for my jaded nerves and dispelled any feeling of being lost in transit. I felt grounded once again.


I stopped at Owaka for dinner where I was served by an earnest young waitress who deserves top marks for her Girl Guide approach to service. However (yes it had been quite a day for the 'howevers') I was served a souless, over-priced beef-burger which consisted of a too-toasted bun soaked in mustard sauce and a couple of pieces of tough beef, all questionably embellished with limp lettuce and too many deep-fried potato chips. The meal was cooked by a cook (again, spectacularly young) who may or may not have been suffering from what the night-before had inflicted upon his person and demeanour. I didn't have the heart to complain to my fresh-faced waitress. When she asked me how my meal was, I choked back the truth and found in me the necesary kindness to muster up a (albeit rather strained) "Good, thanks".


 back to the golden sands of St Kilda beach

Aggie-cat was pleased to see me when I got home. I gave Ruby a pat too when I turned off the engine. She did me proud. All told, we'd been on the road for over 8 hours that day.

Over all, the trip away was great. The time with Chris and Jenny in Queenstown, definitely the highlight.
Having a coffee at 'Aunty Mary's', very, very special.

My writer's tank is full. To the brim. Many impressions, much inspiration  ... I'm ready now to use it all up by writing, writing, writing at a hundred miles an hour. (After another walk along the beach. My beach, this time).


Wednesday, 2 April 2014

There's Life in the Old Girl Yet (Orepuki)


Travelling from Te Anau to the south coast involves driving part of the way, cheek-to-cheek with the ruggedy old Takitimu mountain range.



I stopped off at Clifden Bridge - a notable (the first in fact) suspension bridge over the Waiau river. The bridge has been classed as 'a New Zealand engineering achievement of outstanding heritage significance'. (Is it just me, or is the syntax a bit off there?)





Farther south, at the town of Tuatapere, the Waiau river makes its final leap to the coast.
 

Sad to see this on the Waiau bridge - about seven years ago a relative of mine drowned here on his 21st birthday.



 Historic railway goods shed ...


 ... and railway station. (Old railway stations seem to be another theme on this trip).


Te Waewae Lagoon on the coast between Tuatapere and Orepuki.

After a little wander around Tuatapere (partly looking for, and failing to find, the maternity hospital where I was born) it was back on the road again, heading for the coast and Orepuki, the town where I lived for the first ten years of my life ...


And continuing with the gate theme ... (see my previous post)

I was really looking forward to stopping off at the new restaurant that has recently opened in Orepuki, mainly because it was my Great-Aunt Mary's old house, a 100-year-old (or thereabouts) wooden villa that has been restored. She was Mrs.Mary Simpson, the daughter of my great-great grandfather, Henry Hirst, a Yorkshireman who founded the original township of Orepuki (calling it Hirstfield).

My Aunty Lorna is also looking forward to visiting the cafe. She wants to tell them that they should have called it, 'Aunty Mary's'. That's what the family on my mother's side have always called the house; we'd struggle to call it anything else.
 
Mum remembers the gate (in the photo above) well, as she went through it often when visiting Aunty Mary, delivering her mail and sometimes staying to have lunch. She also remembers the people who lived in the house before Aunty Mary lived there. She told me the owners owned a parrot which sat on the gate and spoke to people walking past.

And Aunty Mary also sat (not on the gate!) but on her front porch. From this vantage point she could see what was going on in the town and call out to people going past.

I also remember being with my mother once when she visited Aunty Mary, who was in her 90's by then, dressed in black; a rather formidable old lady.



It felt surreal sitting there thinking about Aunty Mary. 

After talking to Mum later, I can see now that I was probably sitting where Aunty Mary used to sit. It was funny, but at the time I did feel a quiet compulsion to sit outside at that table. The weather was uncertain; there was even the occassional spot of rain; I was asked a couple of times if I was sure I wanted to be out there. (In actual fact, the wind was warm which is unusual for Orepuki. Maybe it was a sign of Aunty Mary's approval?)

I felt an optimism about the town. It's been a long time since I felt that way about Orepuki. Maybe my fears that it would one day disappear completely off the map, have been allayed. A breath of fresh air is blowing into the old town. 

When I lived here in the 50's - 60's, it was a thriving country town. On my many visits over the past six decades, I always thought I was witnessing it slowly die. However, it's apparent that people who have stuck by the place, and worked to keep it alive, are beginning to see results.





This is the end of the road where we used to live. In the distance, Te Waewae Bay. It's a view permanently imprinted on my memory - like an internal tattoo. 

Monday, 31 March 2014

Endings & Beginnings (for Jenny)

The end of the line? Or the beginning? 

My first stop on the drive to Te Anau from Queenstown was at an old railway siding at a place called Fairlight. The place is well-named (although I believe like a lot of European place-names in New Zealand, it was named after a settler's 'old home' back in Britain).



Even so, well-named, because after the close, winding road that hugs Lake Wakatipu through to the end of the lake (or the beginning) at Kingston, the road leads through land that widens and flattens out and does, indeed, appear to be bathed in fair light.
The old railway station is now used (intermittently) as a stopping (or starting) place for the historic steam train, The Kingston Flyer's, excursions.


I believe this church in Garston is where Robert's parents got married. A beginning.


My next stop was at Garston, 'the most inland village in New Zealand'. This made me think of what I posted on my blog about a week ago:  'Tomorrow I head inland. As far from the sea as this island I live on, will allow'. No truer word spoken!


 I seemed to want to take photos of lines, doorways, gate-ways ... Departures or arrivals? Ways out or in? Farewells or welcomes? 




This little rotary clothesline is part of the Peter Rabbit's Home (I kid you not) that I stumbled across, neatly tucked under the over-hanging branches of a cypress tree.

I didn't know whether to be freaked out or fascinated.

I guess it was a mixture of both that made me stop, look, then think, "Oh why not?" and actually write a note to Peter Rabbit in the Visitor's Book!


There were about six books full of greeetings. A quick flick through seemed to indicate that entries date back to 2004.


I bade Garston and Peter Rabbit good-bye.

After a sharp right-turn (or turn westward) at Five Rivers, *Ruby's bonnet was pointing towards Te Anau-au.

* A bit naff, but it's my name for our wee car.


My sister made the comment that my journey seemed to be all about water. Maybe … but as well as the deep and secretive water of the beautiful Lake Te Anau, what else was I seeing?


Lines and ties. Connections.



Vessels of voyages and journeys.





The day had begun with a farewell that left me feeling sad. I left Queenstown blinking back tears. Farewells create absence, but thankfully they don't need to mean a break in connection.


At the risk of this post sinking under existentialism overload, I just wanted to point out how interesting it is ( in a symbolic kind of way) that the 'Outward Going Boat' has right of way ...

“Don't drive too fast,” Jenny told me. I promised her I wouldn't. This sign also seems to be telling me to slow down as I make my way back home again. Slowly.

Friday, 28 March 2014

Rove Round the Cove (Bob's Cove)


 Not a bad view to look out at while having breakfast, I am sure you will agree.


Another view from Chris and Jenny's home.

The Lady of the Lake (The Earnslaw) has been steaming back and forth across the lake (Wakatipu) for one hundred years now.


A walk round Bob's Cove was on the agenda today. Reminders that it is autumn were all around us as we walked through light, native evergreens, silver birches and eucalyptus.


An old lime kiln. Here limestone was rendered into quicklime which was then turned into mortar for building purposes.


Dead trees (eucalyptus) are a striking sight against the clear blue sky.


A bit of a stop on our way to the look-out point farther on. A palpable peace descending.


From the lookout, looking towards the Remarkables.


And farther to the left, Bob's Cove itself.


Back down the track and time to hunt for a picnic spot with some shade. It might be autumn, but that sun was still beating down.


Perfect.

Jenny had prepared a picnic for us: yummy meatballs, crispy lettuce leaves, cheese and bread. Espresso coffee from the thermos to accompany. Yum!


Eyes up to take in some pretty leaves ...


... and some kind of look-out ... or diving board ... or bird-watching contraption?


A perfect end to a perfect afternoon - a swim in the (very cold) snow-fed water. (The photo above is of Jenny swimming. She took some photos of me too. I'll add one when she sends them to me).

No matter how warm the sun, it will never warm the waters of this lake. Very refreshing though, the feel of the clear water felt like velvet on my skin as I dried off in the sun.

Harbour

Harbour
'how this all harbours light'